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Dog Brushes by Coat Type:
What Slickers, Pins, and Combs Each Do

Aug 21, 2026

In my first month with my dog Gureum (it means "cloud" in Korean), I bought five brushes. Every one came recommended. The two I actually use now: a slicker and a comb. The other three sleep in a drawer. If I'd known the coat decides the brush, I'd have kept the money. Here's that guide, on the house.

Quick answer

The coat type picks the brush. Curly single coats: slicker plus comb. Double coats: undercoat rake plus slicker. Short coats: a rubber brush. Two brushes cover most breeds. Frequency: daily for long and curly coats, 2-3 times a week for double coats (daily in shedding season), and 1-2 times a week for short coats.

A white curly-coated dog sitting next to a slicker brush and comb on the floor, waiting to be brushed
Bought five. Use these two.

What does each brush actually do?

Every brush has a different job: opening tangles, lifting dead coat, finishing, verifying. Buy without knowing the jobs and your drawer fills up like mine did.

BrushLooks likeJobRight coat
SlickerFine, dense wire pins, slightly bent tipsOpening tangles, lifting dead coat, standing the coat while dryingCurly, long, double coats
Pin brushLong pins with rounded tipsSmoothing, finishing, dusting offLong single coats (Maltese, Yorkies)
CombMetal teeth, fine on one end, coarse on the otherTangle verification, face and paw detail, final checkAll long and curly coats
Rubber brushRubber nubsDead-coat removal, massageShort coats (Dachshunds, French Bulldogs, Beagles)
Undercoat rakeOne row of long teethPulling only the undercoatDouble coats (Pomeranians, Shibas, Goldens, Corgis)
De-shedding toolFine bladeBulk removal of dead undercoatDouble coats in shedding season: overuse damages topcoat

* De-shedding tools are efficient but cut topcoat too: frequent use leaves the coat brittle. Shedding season, about once a week.

Which combo fits which breed?

Learned this on the job: the right brush matters far more than the good brush. Put a pin brush on a curly coat and the surface turns lovely while the inside keeps matting. I fell for that one for months.

What order, and how often?

The order: ends to roots. Open the tips a little at a time and work upward: start at the roots and one snagged tangle teaches them to hate the whole enterprise. Zones: back, sides, belly, legs: then the mat factories: armpits, behind the ears, groin, under the tail. Finish with one comb sweep: no snags, you're done. Frequency: 5-10 minutes daily for curly and long coats, 2-3 times a week for double coats, 1-2 for short. Gureum grows a pea-sized armpit mat the day after any skipped day: so ours is daily.

Five minutes of brushing: the hard part is doing it daily

A brushing habit collapses back into tangles after a few skipped days. Post the sleek after-brushing photos to kkeung and each keeps its date: the feed shows exactly how many days you skipped. The neighborhood dogs' likes make decent motivation for tomorrow's five minutes.

Save a photo of today →

How do you open a matted spot?

Small tangles

A light spray of detangler or conditioner, split the mat halfway with your fingers, then slicker from the ends inward, a little at a time. Hold the root side with your other hand so the skin never takes the pull.

Big mats

If fingers can't split it, don't force it. The pain teaches brush-hatred, and the skin under a serious mat is often already raw. Clippers at the groomer's is the correct answer.

Bathe AFTER detangling

Water hits a mat and it felts tighter. That's why pre-bath brushing outranks post-bath brushing. Back when I bathed first and brushed never, Gureum's armpits stayed permanently clumped.

Brushing is grooming's most boring line item and its most important one: half of all skin disease starts under a mat. Tonight, five minutes in front of the TV. That's the start.

Frequently asked questions

They try to bite the brush.
That's a pain memory talking: a root-first stroke once yanked a tangle, and it stuck. For a few days, just hold the brush and hand out treats. Then one or two gentle strokes on the back only, and stop. Ends to roots, kept short, closed with a treat: run that for two weeks and most dogs come around.
Doesn't a slicker hurt when it touches skin?
Wire pins scraping skin does hurt. A slicker is a light wrist-sweep tool, not a pressing tool: the force test is your own inner forearm: if it hurts you, it's too hard. Coated pin tips add a margin of safety.
Brushing seems to make MORE hair fall out.
That's hair that already shed, caught in the brush on its way out. Skip the brushing and it lands on floors and clothes instead: or, in curly coats, mats from the inside. A full brush means the brushing is working.
Isn't there one universal brush that does everything?
Two-sided combo brushes (pins one side, bristles the other) exist: fine for short coats and short trims, insufficient for curly or double coats. Two brushes matched to the coat beat one universal every time. It's not the expensive brush: it's the right brush.
Do I brush before the bath, or after?
Before. Wet tangles cinch tighter and get harder to open. Detangle everything before the bath: after, brush lightly with the grain while drying. And a hard slicker on wet hair snaps coat and scuffs skin: save the real work for dry hair.

This article is general information and does not replace a veterinary diagnosis. Talk to your vet about your dog's condition.